Hotel Review: Villa Copenhagen, Ascend Hotel Collection
Villa Copenhagen used to be the Central Post & Telegraph Head Office in 1912, but it is now a vibrant and contemporary hotel with sustainable and responsible hospitality goals in mind. As I browsed through AMEX’s Fine Hotels & Resorts (FHR) portfolio, I was instantly drawn to its stunning Scandinavian design and unwavering commitment to responsible hospitality. In addition, the hotel’s participation in AMEX’s FHR program meant I would receive various benefits and perks, including complimentary breakfast, experience credits, room upgrades, etc. The hotel's unique wellness amenities exceeded my expectations, making my stay truly exceptional. Here is my review of Villa Copenhagen:
What Card(s) Should You Use to Book?
The AMEX Platinum card is one of the best premium travel cards available on the market. The AMEX Platinum card currently offers a sign-up bonus of 100,000 Membership Rewards (MR) points after spending $6,000 in the first six months of account opening. I personally value MR points at 2 cents per point, making the sign-up bonus worth about $2,000. The card earns 5X MR points on up to $500,000 per calendar year on flights purchased directly from airlines or on the AMEX travel portal. It also earns 5X MR points on hotels booked and prepaid on the AMEX travel portal, and all other purchases earn 1X MR points.
If you thought the multipliers of the card were mediocre, prepare yourself because the card's annual fee is $695. It is one of the most expensive cards to open, but thankfully, AMEX included valuable benefits to effectively offset the annual fee. Here are the following benefits included in the card membership:
$200 Fine Hotels & Resorts Credit & Benefits
$200 Uber Credit
$200 Airline Credit
Centurion Lounge Access & Priority Pass Membership
Delta Sky Club Access When Flying Delta
Hilton Honors Gold Status & Marriott Bonvoy Gold Elite Status
Reimbursed Global Entry or TSA PreCheck Application Fees
$240 Digital Entertainment Credit
$300 Equinox Credit
$179 CLEAR Credit
$100 Saks Fifth Avenue Credit
If you are able to maximize the benefits, you will get much more value in return than its annual fee. Moreover, because the card provides perks for flights, hotels, and daily expenses like digital subscriptions, Uber rides, and Uber Eats, your AMEX Platinum can be your one-stop shop for luxury travel needs!
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Location
Villa Copenhagen’s location is great for anyone but is especially spectacular for tourists. The hotel is located across from Copenhagen Central Station, where you can catch major metros and a train to and from Copenhagen Airport. A train ride to Copenhagen Airport takes about 15 minutes, so you can take time packing before leaving the hotel. In addition, it serves as a great base, and you can practically go everywhere by bus or metro from the station. Other major attractions are nearby, and Tivoli Gardens is diagonally situated across from the hotel.
Lobby & Check-In Review
As I made my way from Copenhagen Central Station to the hotel, I was pleased to discover that it was just a short walk away. Stepping into the lobby, I was greeted by a stunning dome-shaped space with high ceilings that immediately captured my attention.
The skylight overhead was beautifully patterned, with sprinkles of artwork adding to the ambiance. The lobby was home to the Courtyard Bar, offering a range of refreshments from light bites to full meals, as well as the hotel’s signature cocktails.
There was an assortment of seating arrangements in the area, including small round tables with lounge chairs and large coffee tables with family-style couches.
Although the lobby was generally quiet and serene, guests who prefer a more private dining or work space can check out the Playroom, which is located next to the front desk.
During my stay, the Playroom was open to all guests since no private events were scheduled. It felt like a sophisticated lounge with some rooms resembling a game room, providing a cozy and intimate atmosphere.
With a plentiful assortment of tables and seats, The Play Room provided the perfect environment for group gatherings. Whether you're meeting friends, hosting a party, or organizing a corporate event, there's plenty of room to accommodate everyone comfortably.
Plus, the laid-back atmosphere and inviting decor would create a welcoming ambiance that will make your event even more enjoyable. In the corner of the lobby, a design and lifestyle shop called Passagen displayed various goods available for purchase.
The shop curated a thoughtful collection of local and international products, such as Swedish rapeseed wax candles and aromatic diffusers by Skandinavisk, sustainable activewear by Copenhagen Cartel, and natural probiotic cleaners by Simple Goods.
If you are in a hurry and need to get quality local souvenirs, Passagen may be an excellent stop for shopping.
Adjacent to the check-in area was a temporary exhibit in partnership with the Danish Red Cross, allowing visitors to donate gifts to children staying at Danish asylum centers.
After carefully exploring the lobby, I checked in and discovered that the hotel had upgraded my room to a junior suite.
I had initially made my reservation through the AMEX Platinum card's Fine Hotels & Resorts portal, so I was anticipating a modest upgrade. However, the upgrade to a junior suite was quite significant as it was a corner room with substantially more space.
The receptionist was incredibly accommodating, giving me a detailed overview of the junior suite's amenities and making arrangements for my breakfast the following day. From there, she personally walked me to the elevator, and I went up to the second floor, where my suite was located.
Bedroom Review
Upon entering the room, my attention was immediately drawn to the high ceiling towering over me at an impressive 16 feet. The herringbone-patterned wood flooring created a cozy atmosphere, perfectly showcasing the hotel's incorporation of natural materials and design and reflecting the essence of Danish design. The hotel utilized every inch of the space to maximize its real estate, starting with a work desk nook.
My suite had an espresso machine by illy coffee, and I was delighted to find beautiful coffee mugs and espresso cups instead of the usual paper cups. At Villa Copenhagen, reducing the utilization of disposable paper and plastic products was a top priority, evident in every aspect of my stay. Although the desk was narrow, it perfectly blended into the wall. Additionally, a stunning white marble round table could be used in the living space if extra room was needed.
On top of the table, I found a collection of welcome amenities from the hotel—a bottle of brut reserve champagne along with a bag full of local goods, including a screen cleaning spray, notepad, hand cream, artisanal chocolate, and Danish butter cookies from the hotel’s bakery.
Notably, the hotel staff had also included a warm, handwritten letter from Team Villa. It was an incredibly generous welcome, and I extend my sincere gratitude to the team at Villa Copenhagen.
Before the suite opened up its layout for the bed, there was one last piece of furniture that looked like a drawer.
Crystal rocks glass on top suggested that it could be something else, and it was actually a mini bar with a pullout fridge. You could open up the top and extend the bottom cover to transform it into a mixology station.
The hotel supplied the minibar with a bottle of petite Spätburgunder, and the bottom drawer revealed a generously stocked mini fridge filled with Danish alcoholic beverages, juice, and candies. The mini bar was a great example of remarkable Danish design—excelling in design and functionality.
The corner room of the suite boasted a plush king-sized bed adorned with a fabric headboard with a replaceable accent piece.
I would imagine that this clever design feature allowed the hotel's design team to periodically switch out accent pieces to keep the room feeling fresh and new. Moreover, it makes it much more effortless to swap it out with a new one in case it gets dirty.
The mattress itself was incredibly comfortable, providing a perfect level of support for a good night's rest. Above the headboard hung unique, abstract art, while a cool, seesaw-like light fixture adorned the ceiling.
Small wooden nightstands on each bedside were outfitted with reading lights and convenient charging ports, including USB and master light switch controls. A comfortable lounge chaise was by the foot of the bed, perfect for taking a nap.
A smart TV was wall-mounted in the corner of the bedroom, and instead of using a remote controller, it encouraged me to utilize a QR code on display to navigate the TV using my phone. Moreover, the QR code enabled access to useful amenities like booking breakfast and reserving your spot at the hotel pool.
Since the suite was a corner unit, the bedroom had more windows than standard hotel rooms, and because it diagonally faced Tivoli Gardens, I sometimes heard people screaming from thrill rides. At night, I enjoyed glittering festive lights as Tivoli Gardens decorated itself with Christmas lights.
There was nothing I would complain about the bedroom as I appreciated every minute I spent in the suite. Minimalistic yet practical Scandinavian interior and furniture design brought joy, and the generous welcome amenities from the hotel were a cherry on top.
Bathroom Review
The bathroom was across from the work desk and featured a herringbone-patterned, black marble floor. The bathroom had a single-sink vanity with a relatively small sink. Luckily, the water faucet was tall enough that I didn’t splatter water when washing my hands, which was something I had frequently encountered with small sinks with short faucets.
The vanity top was gorgeous gray marble, and a portion of the vanity mirror was intentionally bent permanently, which had a magnified makeup mirror with lights. The toiletries were by Skaninavisk—a Danish fragrance company using natural ingredients with responsible sourcing practices.
Speaking of companies with sustainable products, when I asked the hotel for a dental kit, the front desk sent me a bamboo toothbrush and a full-sized toothpaste from The Humble Co.—a Swedish sustainable oral care product company that uses eco-friendly materials. I loved the feel of the toothbrush, and the toothpaste was gentle but effective.
The toilet didn’t come with a bidet, but the walk-in shower was absolutely fantastic. The shower featured rainfall and handheld showerheads, and thanks to the slightly angled shower floor, there was no water spillage to the outside.
To promote sustainability in reducing plastic waste, the hotel used communal bottles for the toiletries. The bodywash dried my skin to a small extent, but I appreciated how they clearly listed natural and organic ingredients. The shower had a distinctive feature—bi-folding double glass doors—that I hadn't seen elsewhere. Overall, while the bathroom wasn’t as roomy as the bedroom, everything was designed and executed with Scandinavian design principles.
Gym Review
The gym was located on the first floor and was open 24/7. The gym wasn’t as big as I had hoped for, but mirrored walls instantly created a spacious atmosphere. In addition, ample lighting and dynamic music in the background made for an engaging workout atmosphere. The fitness center was decked out with the latest wellness gadgets and equipment. There were two adjustable benches and a standard dumbbell set with weights going up to 50 pounds.
TechnGym cardio machines, including rowing machines and cycling bikes, were positioned against an exposed brick wall.
To account for the lack of strength machines, the gym had TechnoGym’s Kinesis known for its versatility. Even though there were some kettlebells for strength exercises, the Kinesis was the way to go as it was challenging to secure open space, especially when sharing the gym with other guests.
The gym wasn’t forgotten when it came to sustainable environmental goals; its eco-friendly hydration station offered glass carafes and cups to reduce plastic and paper waste, and they were regularly replenished. It could be a less desired concept for Americans, but I applaud Villa Copenhagen for committing to its environmental goals.
The fitness center was adequate for daily workouts, but the highlight of the hotel was its rooftop pool.
Pool & Sauna Review
If you plan on taking a dip in the Villa Copenhagen rooftop pool, be sure to reserve a timeslot. While the gym is available on a first-come, first-served basis, the pool requires a booking, which can be made at the front desk or via the QR code in the room.
Each guest can enjoy a 45-minute session per night, but additional time can be reserved at an additional cost unless you're staying in one of the specialty suites. The pool is a 25-meter lap pool that's sustainably heated by leftover heat from the hotel's cooling systems.
The water temperature ranged between 28°C and 30°C, and I admired the hotel’s effort to take sustainability to another level. I booked my spot from 7 AM to 7:45 AM before starting my day in Copenhagen. At 7 AM, the sun was still yet to come up, but the moon and lighting in the pool helped me guide the way.
The temperature in the morning was -4°C, and due to the freezing temperature, the outside wooden deck leading to the pool was slightly frozen, so be careful if you were to swim on a wintery morning.
Fortunately, the hotel provided a pair of sustainable slippers by Indosole, which were made out of recycled rubber from tires so they would provide natural traction on a wet surface.
I was wearing a swimsuit with a bathrobe, so I immediately rushed into the water after putting my belongings down on one of the sunbeds. The lap pool was 1.2 meters deep, so obviously, no diving was allowed.
After swimming for about 20 minutes, I put my bathrobe back on and went to the opposite end of the pool, where you could enjoy a traditional Finnish sauna. I used one of the two showers to rinse off my body before entering the sauna. Big enough for ten people, it was satisfying to ladle water over the hot rocks to generate steam.
The sauna session left me feeling energized and reinvigorated. While the pool bar was closed, I imagined sipping cocktails and people-watching from the many tables and chairs positioned along the deck on warmer days.
No matter when you visit, add the rooftop pool and sauna to your to-do list. It was a true luxury to experience rooftop swimming in the middle of Copenhagen.
Dining Review—The Courtyard Bar
While staying at Villa Copenhagen, I had hoped to dine at their renowned brasserie, Kontrast, and sample some of the craft cocktails at T37 on the ground floor.
I really wanted to visit T37 due to its unique cocktail offerings, but unfortunately, both were closed on the day of my stay.
Fortunately, The Courtyard Bar in the lobby, designed by Shamballa Jewels, was open, and I was seated immediately without a reservation.
I decided to use my 100 USD AMEX FHR booking benefit to treat myself to a delicious cocktail named Marianne, made with berry-infused Kyrö gin and lingonberry juice. The drink was inspired by Finnish ingredients, and I enjoyed its refreshing berry flavor.
For dinner, I ordered an appetizer of Tuna from Grøndal and Rug sourdough bread with aioli and a burger with triple-cooked fries. Although I assumed the appetizer would come first, it arrived with the main dish. The tuna was served in a can, and had I known it was canned tuna, I wouldn’t have ordered it. However, the sourdough was absolutely phenomenal with its crunchy exterior and pillowy yet slightly chewy interior.
The burger was decent, but the bottom bun was soggy. On the other hand, the potato "fries," which were actually wedges, were the best dish of the night.
The service at The Courtyard Bar was slow, and the table next to me, who ordered later, received their food before me. As they also ordered the burger, there may have been a mix-up with the order sequence. Overall, the food quality was decent but not exceptional. However, Kontrast remains on my list for my next stay at Villa Copenhagen.
Breakfast Review
The breakfast was served on the basement level in the former sorting room of the Central Post & Telegraph Office from 6:30 AM to 10 AM on weekdays and 7 AM to 11 AM on weekends. The breakfast buffet was 260 DKK, but non-staying guests were welcome to dine in as well. If you want something less substantial, you can grab light offerings at the hotel’s bar, T37.
Breakfast was complimentary for me because of my AMEX FHR reservation. My breakfast reservation was at 7:30 AM, and upon checking in with the dining room receptionist, she walked me to my table. The dining hall was massive, even though only half of the hall was being used during my stay.
I ordered a cup of cappuccino to start and went straight to the hot food station, where the restaurant served traditional breakfast items like baked beans, bacon, sausage, scrambled eggs, and pancakes. However, if you want other styles of eggs, such as ham and cheese or vegetarian omelets, you can make a request to the kitchen.
I tried the ham and cheese omelet, and it was silky smooth on the inside and was finished with a generous dusting of parmesan cheese on top. As expected for Scandinavian breakfast sausages, the sausage was very flavorful with a hint of smokiness. I also tried some spicy baked beans and paired them with the homemade sourdough from the hotel’s bakery, Rug.
The baked beans had a spicy kick with a slight sweetness, and the sourdough was the perfect vessel for the beans. The sourdough had a nice crust on the outside, and its bouncy and delightfully aromatic center was to die for.
If you are gluten-free, the restaurant had a separate section, along with other items for vegan and lactose-intolerant folks.
I moved on to the cheese and meat station, which was next to fresh-cut fruits and veggies. The buffet featured various cuts, including chorizo, smoked salmon, pâté, and many more, but my favorite was the mortadella.
I had the pâté with picked zucchini on Danish rye bread, and the simple combination of those flavors worked harmoniously. The buffet had typical cheese offerings such as Swiss and brie, but I was able to try vesterhavsost for the first time. It’s a Danish cheese that is matured in salty North Sea air.
I had it with ripe pieces of melon and cantaloupe, but it was good on its own. Before having dessert, I had to try Danish Tykmælk—a thick Danish yogurt. The dining hall had numerous toppings from nuts and fried fruits, but I kept mine simple with homemade granola and homemade apple jam. The yogurt had a pleasant texture, but the toastiness from the granola was outstanding.
I was stuffed after all the delicious food from the buffet, but I couldn’t skip Danish dessert pastries. The pastries were freshly baked from Rug, and the selections included Parisian classics like croissants, pain au chocolat, and madeleines and Danish favorites like cardamon buns, cinnamon buns, Spanbauer, and Tebirkes (Danish poppy seed rolls).
Every item was incredibly delicate and remarkable; The pain au chocolat was beautifully layered, and the cinnamon bun’s stick exterior was all worth it to get to its gooey inside. The Berliner was fluffy, and its indulgent vanilla custard oozed out when I bit into it. I may be biased because I love pastries, but I would gladly pay for the buffet just to enjoy the pastries.
The breakfast buffet was a phenomenal way to start my morning. With so many tables available in the dining hall, there was practically no wait when being seated, and the hotel staff worked diligently to clean up dishes and replenish food as people enjoyed delicious food.
While I loved every single item at the buffet, if I had to pick some of the best items on the menu, they have to be the sourdough bread and the pastries. The sourdough was comparable to the sourdough I had at St. George Hotel in Helsinki, Finland, but the one at Villa Copenhagen had a tangier flavor profile. Naturally, I had to check out the bakery, Rug, after breakfast to dive deeper into its marvelous baked goods.
Bakery Review—Rug
Even after dinner at The Courtyard Bar, I still had some of my AMEX FHR food and beverage credit, so I stopped by Rug to buy some Danish butter cookies. To reach the bakery, you would actually need to exit the building on the basement level, and you will find a separate entrance for the bakery.
As soon as I opened the door, I was instantly hit with a buttery aroma infused with honey and cinnamon. Even though I tried most of the bakery’s indulgent offerings at the breakfast buffet, there were still some items, like rock cookies with molten chocolate inside or Danish Tea Buns, that didn’t make it to the buffet.
The bakery sold coffee and tea as well and had a few tables for guests to dine in. Because the bakery is open to anyone, even if you are not staying at Villa Copenhagen, you can enjoy the pastries in the cafe.
In the corner of the bakery was a shelf full of Danish butter cookies, hot chocolate mixes, and chocolate.
I bought three bags of butter cookies—sugar, vanilla, and almond flavors—and gifted them to my friends in Austin, TX. They were so good that everyone wanted a bite, and people just couldn't get enough of them.
If you are staying at Villa Copenhagen, I highly recommend checking out Rug for baked goods, and if you are just visiting Copenhagen, stop by for a quick cafe break. You won’t regret it.
Positives & Negatives
Positives
Villa Copenhagen’s commitment to sustainability and its attention to detail in meaningful design, based on the Scandinavian design approach, were recurring themes that I encountered everywhere in the hotel. The gorgeous furniture inside my suite was minimalistic and natural yet remained practical. The hotel used and promoted products that cared for the environment and minimized the use of unnecessary plastic and paper waste.
The breakfast buffet featured an expansive array of items, and every dish was fresh and executed well. I genuinely fell in love with the sourdough bread and dessert pastries from Rug. Since the buffet and the bakery welcome non-staying guests, if you are looking for a delicious breakfast buffet, check out breakfast at Villa Copenhagen.
The hotel was full of wellness amenities; the rooftop pool was not only sustainably heated but also designed for laps. After swimming, reinvigorate your body in the sauna.
The level of hospitality I experienced at the hotel was impeccable. I was greeted with a smile every time I talked to the hotel staff, and the operations team went above and beyond, from showering me with thoughtful welcome gifts and handling pool and breakfast reservations.
Negatives
The dining experience at The Courtyard Bar was lukewarm compared to the overall lodging experience at Villa Copenhagen. My food came out later than folks that ordered later than I did, and my burger was soggy. Hopefully, it was an honest mishap, but I will try Kontrast next time I return to the hotel.
Summary
Villa Copenhagen, Ascend Hotel Collection, was one of the best hotels I stayed in during my time in Copenhagen. Thanks to the AMEX Fine Hotels & Resorts benefits, I was upgraded to a junior suite which was brilliantly designed, knocking aesthetics and practicality out of the park. The suite was curated with beautifully designed furniture, and the hotel welcomed me with thoughtfully selected Danish welcome amenities. The most admirable part about Villa Copenhagen was the hotel’s commitment to sustainability. The motto was shown everywhere in the hotel, from promoting toiletries with environmental goals to using utilizing the excess heat from the hotel’s cooling systems to heat the rooftop pool sustainably. Even though the hotel is right across from the Central Copenhagen station and Tivoli Gardens, you may not want to leave Villa Copenhagen once you step inside, as it provides exceptional amenities for wellness and recharge. You can take laps in the rooftop swimming pool and rejuvenate your mind and body in the sauna. In the morning, start your day with delicious food offerings from the breakfast buffet, or stop by Rug for its exceptional pastries and sourdough. I highly recommend staying at Villa Copenhagen when you are in Copenhagen, and I truly cannot wait to return to this stunning property next time I am in Denmark.